I have always loved the Lake District, having visited many times over the years, but recently was the first time that I went there solo.
Living in a city, I was desperately in need of the fresh, country air and scenery that this stunning part of England affords.
I decided to stay in Grasmere as this is not only one of the smaller and quieter villages in the area but also one of the most beautiful. I wanted to do a hike and for such a small village, Grasmere has a surprising amount right on the doorstep.
The Lake District is stunning and the tiny village of Grasmere sits right in the middle of mountains, as you walk through the village you are surrounded by the beauty of them.
The village itself has plenty of smart restaurants and bed and breakfast accommodation, along with gift shops, outdoor wear stores and a lovely little book shop.
There is also a small supermarket and chemist for any essentials, but there is a particular shop in this village that is famous, The Grasmere Gingerbread shop https://www.grasmeregingerbread.co.uk/ It has been there since 1854, when its founder Sarah Nelson first made her secret recipe, that is still used today.
She set up a stall outside this building which was back then her home.
Today, the secret recipe is still baked fresh daily and authentically wrapped up in parchment paper. Not much has changed since its origins which adds to the charm and as you enter the olde worlde shop it gives a sense of stepping back in time.
The gingerbread is unique, its taste and texture, a cross between a biscuit and a cake; and such is its popularity that it is not uncommon to see long queues outside the door.
The Walks
There are numerous walks in the area, but I decided I was going to try to do the Easedale Tarn hike. I say try because it had been a long time since I had done any kind of hike and this looked a fairly steep and rocky one. Although it is not considered to be particularly difficult, or maybe that refers to seasoned hikers.
So after what was a wonderful breakfast at the guesthouse, the best one I’d had in a long time, I put on my walking boots and headed out.
Easdale tarn is a walk that takes you up a mountain and at the top you are greeted with a tarn (a small lake). Also adding to the beauty of the walk is Sour Milk Ghyll Falls which cascade down the mountain, alongside you as you head up.
It is about 8.5 kilometres, well signposted and you only need to walk directly from village, along a country road to reach the start. So it is very easily accessible. After only a few steps from the village I was already surrounded by fields and mountains; and not long after found myself crossing a little wooden foot bridge over a river; that meanders across the land towards Easedale Tarn.
I continued along a stony path through meadows, relishing in the scenic view. As I crossed through a field of sheep I could see the waterfall tumbling down the mountain and noticed hikers near the top. They looked small in the distance and I wondered if I could indeed do this after all. Since the pandemic my exercise had left a lot to be desired.
The path narrowed as I steered along the edge of the stream, the walk was pleasant and flat and I eventually reached the ascent. Here though, it was rocky underfoot and steep but lovely how the waterfall flowed beside me.
After what felt like a long time I turned to look down and admire the valley below and take photographs.
I have to admit I was feeling somewhat pleased with myself having come this far; that was until a saw a couple of runners, yes runners, speed right past me.
As you reach the very top, the tarn will suddenly come into view, and you can either opt to walk around it; or like me just sit on a rock and enjoy the serenity (and the rest!).
As I admired the view I have to admit I ate some cake. A delicious piece of freshly baked Victoria sponge, that Jenny, the owner at the guesthouse, had so kindly handed me after breakfast, to take with me on my walk.
You can return back to Grasmere the same way, which seems to be the most popular. Or alternatively take the longer, circular route down the other side.
I noticed a few people were doing this and as I felt it had been quite steep going up, I opted to take the circular route back. It did look flatter.
To start the descent this way, you do first need to walk across some stepping stones over a stream. Apparently if there has been heavy rain then the stream is too full and you cannot get across. Not without wading through the water anyway.
Luckily the weather had been fairly dry, so I crossed the stepping stones and began the walk back. I did notice that this way was often boggy in parts though, so I would certainly recommend avoiding returning this way if there has been a lot of rain. The route also seemed longer as it twisted and turned.
At times there was no one else in sight, and the thought of getting lost reluctantly began to creep into the back of my mind.
Half way down I was contemplating whether I should have taken this route back after all. However in the end I was glad that I had. It was beautiful and peaceful. As I continued the descent, I found myself deep in the valley surrounded by rolling hills, giving me the feeling I had so craved, of being a million miles away from the city.
Although to some this walk does not seem that difficult, (if at all) to me, especially as it had been a long time since I had done a hike, I felt it was not exactly easy as such.
It was steep and a little rocky, a couple of times I needed to scramble up, so that part did feel a little difficult. However it was the first time I had done any trek in a long time, or a solo one, so I did feel a sense of achievement, and optimistic about doing more hikes.
I felt invigorated and surprisingly not exhausted. It was as though the fresh air had given me energy, something that recently feeling bogged down in a city, seemed to have drained from me.
If you have never visited the lake district then I can certainly recommend it. The area is stunning and if you are visiting from overseas it definitely should not be missed off your ‘what to see in England list’.
Tips
If you want to do this hike and take the circular route do look out for a huge boulder that has Grasmere (and an arrow) written on it. It appears as though it is directing you away from Grasmere. This can seem confusing but rest assured it does bring you back. It is because you need to turn this way to go all the way around and then be able to re-join the main track, that does bends back into the direction of Grasmere (to my relief).
I know this is obvious, but wear sturdy walking boots and a raincoat that folds away as the weather can easy change in the lake district. It can get a lot of rain.
I noticed a lot of people had hiking sticks and I myself felt that given the rocky steepness this would have been handy to have
Avoid the circular route after rain, it really is boggy in parts
Where I stayed
I booked into a wonderful accommodation called Beck Allans Guest House http://beckallansguesthouse.co.uk/ in the centre of the village and located on the edge of a little river.
My room overlooked the river, fields with sheep and mountains beyond. In the morning I savoured the sound of the birds and the trickling river, along with a couple of almost resident ducks who had decided to make the guest house their home. They would actually wait outside in the morning for the owners to give them food.
It is a small guest house and very peaceful, with only a handful of rooms. So it gives a more intimate feel but this was enhanced by the owners, Jim and Jenny, who could not have been more hospitable and welcoming. Nothing was too much trouble, and it really made a difference to my trip. The cooked breakfast was delicious, I had the vegetarian option, and it was served in the breakfast room overlooking a lovely garden.
All rooms have a bath, (a necessity I feel after a days hiking); are clean and comfortable, have the usual tea and coffee making facilities, TV and internet; but with the added touch of fancy toiletries to use.